There was a time when Rattanak “Ram” Tray wondered if working in restaurants could ever be a “real” career.

“I’d been in restaurants since I was 14,” he recalls. “But I wasn’t sure I could build a future in them. So, I decided to go to college and study accounting. That’s when I realized I didn’t want to be stuck in a cubicle for the rest of my life.”

Today, far from any cubicle, the chef-owner of Yosaku Restaurant in Portland, Maine spends his days selecting fish at the docks, refining his sushi menu, and greeting guests who dine beside his restaurant’s tranquil Japanese garden.

Boxerbrand: You mentioned you once felt restaurants weren’t a “real” job. What changed your mind?

Ram: I grew up locally and started working in restaurants as a dishwasher when I was 14. My mom and I didn’t have much; we lived in apartment buildings, sometimes on food stamps. As soon as I could, I went to work to help out. Back then, I didn’t see the restaurant industry as a respectable career path. I wanted something “better,” so I went to college for accounting. I thought I had it all figured out, but I quickly learned that wasn’t the life I wanted.

Boxerbrand: What brought you back to restaurants?

Ram: In the early 2000s, Chef Takahiro Sato opened Yosaku to share Japanese culture in Portland through its cuisine. I already had experience as a sushi chef when he hired me, and I worked alongside him from the start. In 2022, after nearly 20 years, I had the opportunity to buy the restaurant and continue his vision with my own interpretation.

During those years, Tak became like a father figure. He led by example and was an incredible workhorse who showed me that nothing comes easy. The timing worked out perfectly for me to step in when he decided to retire.

Boxerbrand: Buying a restaurant is a big financial step. How did you make it happen?

Ram: My wife and I planned for it early on. From the start, I invested in real estate; buying, improving, and refinancing properties over time. After 20 years, I had built a strong enough portfolio to make the down payment on Yosaku.

I think my background in accounting helped. And growing up with very little taught me to save. As a kid, I collected bottles and cans for extra money. So when I started earning, I was determined to make my money work for me.

Boxerbrand: How does that work ethic show up in your restaurant today?

Ram: I’m most proud of the quality of our seafood. I personally go down to the docks early in the morning to hand-select tuna. The fishermen know me and will flag me when they see a perfect cut—the kind where the fat runs beautifully through the meat.

For example, our spicy tuna roll uses fresh tuna, while many restaurants use frozen blocks. The difference in taste is huge.  First-timers are often surprised by how much more vibrant and clean the flavor is.

We also make our soba and buckwheat noodles in-house every day. That’s rare, even in top-tier restaurants. The result is a stronger, more flavorful experience that guests really notice.

Boxerbrand: Tell us about Yosaku’s famous Japanese garden.

Ram: The garden is original to the restaurant and was built 20 years ago by a Japanese gardener. It features a fountain and cherry blossom trees. Three years ago, I added a 60-seat covered patio overlooking the garden, complete with heat lamps for cooler weather.

Those garden seats are always in high demand. We don’t take reservations, so it’s first-come, first-served, and when we open, there’s always a line at the door for them.

Boxerbrand: Portland’s restaurant scene is famously competitive. How has Yosaku stayed strong for so long?

Ram: Portland is tough. It’s a food town with high standards and lots of tourism. But we’ve earned a loyal following and consistent recognition as one of the city’s best restaurants.

We focus on consistency and relationships. Many of our team members have been with us for years, and customers love seeing familiar faces. That connection keeps people coming back.

At Yosaku Restaurant, Ram Tray has built more than a career—he’s created a lasting culinary destination where precision, passion, and a bit of Japanese serenity come together in the heart of Maine. Yosaku Restaurant uses Boxerbrand’s Café Line menu covers in their table presentation. Thank you!